Corfu

Arriving in Corfu for a holiday you'll quickly discover that the island is bigger than it looks, and the driving times are longer than you'd expect. The coastal roads wind through olive groves and past hilltop villages, and you will want to stop to take in the views. Don't consider your stop off as a delay, think of it as being the whole point of a holiday.  

Many people ask, what's the best time to visit Corfu?. The answer is simple; May, June, and September are the perfect months, warm weather, manageable crowds, and a pace that lets you breathe. July and August are very busy, very hot, and more expensive. Book accommodation and car hire well in advance if you're travelling during the main tourist season. The island stays mild into October, perfect for hiking and sightseeing, plus with sea temperatures still pleasant enough for swimming.  

The public bus network connects the main towns, but it's quite limited and can be crowded. A hire car gives you freedom to explore the west coast beaches, the mountain villages, and the quieter corners of the north and south.  

The roads are narrow in places, and parking in Corfu Town can be a problem, but the island is manageable for confident drivers. ATVs and scooters are popular but less safe - the main roads are busy and not suitable for small scooters or ATVs. 

Where to base yourself depends on the holiday you're after - the team at Cassidy Travel will be happy to advise you.  

The northeast coast (Kassiopi, Agni, Kalami) is quieter, with pebble coves and a sophisticated feel. The east coast (Ipsos, Gouvia, Dassia) offers more amenities, family-friendly resorts, and easy access to Corfu Town. The south (Lefkimi, Kavos) is livelier, with a younger crowd and a party reputation. The west coast (Paleokastritsa, Glyfada, Agios Gordios) has the island's most dramatic scenery and best beaches, but fewer accommodation options.  

Corfu is affordable compared to other Greek islands. Eating out won't break the bank - a souvlaki is a few Euros, a sit-down meal with wine is about €15-20 per person. The local wine is perfectly drinkable and cheap. Supermarkets are well-stocked for making picnics for your day out.  

But, it's also worth noting that Mosquitoes are present, especially near water and in the evening. Pack repellent and antihistamines if you happen to have an allergy.  

The tap water is safe to drink, but many prefer bottled water which is available in all small stores and supermarkets. The locals are friendly and used to tourists, but a using a couple of Greek words, like "kalimera" (good morning) and "efharisto" (thank you), tend to go a long way..  

With a little bit of forward planning you can make your Corfu Holiday an incredible experience - a car, a base that suits your personal preferences, and a sense of where you want to go will make your holiday perfect. 

We don't want to tell you what to do on your well-deserved holiday in Corfu, but getting some advice is always worthwhile. With that in mind, here's a few suggestions. 

Start in Corfu Town, you could spend a whole day here and barely scratch the surface of the place. The Old Town is a UNESCO maze of narrow lanes, Venetian arcades, and squares  where you can linger over a coffee or a glass of local wine, and watch the world go about its business.  

The Liston is the grand promenade, lined with cafés that feel like they've been there forever. The Old Fortress rises from the sea at the eastern edge, with ramparts that offer a view of the town and the Albanian coast beyond. The New Fortress is less visited but equally impressive, with a labyrinth of tunnels to explore and a much more laid-back atmosphere.  

Paleokastritsa is the island's most famous bay. The water is turquoise, the hills are green, and the monastery at the top is worth the climb just for the view alone. Rent a small boat, take it along the coast, and find your own cove and your own private world. You'll feel like you've discovered something no one else knows about.  

For anyone feeling more active the Corfu Trail runs the length of the island, from north to south. You don't need to walk all of it - but, by walking even a small section gives you a sense of the island's interior; olive groves, hilltop villages, and a pace of life that belongs to another century. The stretch from Spartylas to Old Perithia is particularly rewarding, with mountain views and a ruined village at the end.  

A boat trip to Paxos and Antipaxos is the classic day out. You'll see the famous blue caves, swim in water so clear you can see the bottom at thirty metres, and stop at the tiny port of Gaios for lunch. It might seem like a long and busy day, but it's one of those experiences that people talk about for years.  

For a different perspective, drive up to Mount Pantokrator. The road is narrow and winding, but the view from the top takes in the whole island, and, on a clear day you can see the coasts of Albania and Italy. There's a monastery at the summit, a café with reasonable coffee, and a feeling that your efforts have earned you the spectacular view.  

If the heat gets too much, Aqualand is a proper water park with slides, pools, and enough shade for parents who just want to sit. It's well-run, clean, and popular with families for good reason - the kids will love it.  

For a quieter afternoon, the Corfu Shell Museum in Kalami is quirky and charming - a collection of shells from around the world, housed in a building that was once a schoolhouse. 

When it comes to food Corfu's culinary tradition is distinct from the rest of Greece - Venetian, French, and British influences layered onto its Greek base. A pastitsada (slow-cooked beef in a rich tomato sauce) or sofrito (veal in a white wine and garlic sauce) is the taste of the island. A good idea might be to join a cooking class, or just find a quiet taverna in a village where the owner's grandmother is running the kitchen.  

Corfu feels like a place where you need to wander, to taste, to look, and to stop for coffee in a square you've never seen before. It's also the kind of place that makes most holidaymakers say, "I could live here". 

Corfu's coastline is a study in contrasts, the east coast faces Albania, with pebbly coves and sunsets that paint the sky with shades of confetti orange and pink. The west coast faces the open Ionian Sea, with longer sandy beaches, bigger waves and a much wilder feel.  

The north offers sheltered bays and rocky headlands. The south is flatter, sandier, and more developed. Whatever your beach style - organised sunbeds and beach bars, or a remote cove reached by a steep path - the island definitely has something for you.  

• Paleokastritsa - A stunning bay of turquoise water ringed by green hills. Several small coves, boat hire to nearby caves, and a monastery with spectacular views.  
• Glyfada Beach - A long stretch of golden sand backed by pine-covered hills. Organised sunbeds, clear water, and a lively atmosphere in summer.  
• Sidari (Canal d'Amour) - Famous for its sandstone coves, shallow, warm water, and rock formations that invite exploration. Swim through the arch and find love! 
• Agios Gordios - A sandy bay with a dramatic rock formation rising from the water. Family-friendly, with a long beach and a laid-back vibe.  
• Kassiopi - A former fishing village with a string of pebble coves. Quieter than the south, with clear water and plenty of nearby tavernas.  
• Rovinia Beach - A hidden cove accessible only by a steep path or boat. No facilities, just pebbles, turquoise water, and a sense of discovery.  
• Ermones Beach - A small, sheltered bay near the famous golf course. Pebbly, quiet, and popular with locals rather than tourists.  
• Agios Stefanos (Avliotes) - A long, sandy beach on the northwest coast. Shallow water, family-friendly, with a handful of tavernas behind the sand dunes.  
• Kerasia Beach - A pebble cove near Kassiopi, with crystal-clear water and a couple of excellent tavernas. Quieter than the main resorts, worth the drive.  
• Barbati Beach - A long pebble beach on the east coast, with sunbeds, water sports, and views across to Albania. Popular but not overcrowded.  
• Nissaki Beach - A small pebble cove north of Barbati, with clear water and a relaxed atmosphere. Good snorkelling, limited facilities.  
• Agios Georgios Pagon - A long, sandy beach on the northwest coast, sheltered by hills. Shallow water, family-friendly, and quieter than the south.  
• Lefkimmi (Santa Barbara) - The southernmost beach, with golden sand and shallow water. Less developed, popular with locals, and a good choice for avoiding crowds.  
• Kavos Beach - The famous party beach, with a long stretch of sand and a strip of bars behind it. Lively, loud, and not for everyone. 
• Messonghi Beach - A long, sandy beach on the east coast, family-friendly with shallow water and plenty of amenities. Quieter than Kavos, busier than the north.

Corfu's food is different than other Greek foods, and you'll notice it immediately. The Venetians ruled here for four centuries, and they left their mark on the kitchen as clearly as on the architecture. The French and the British also passed through, adding their own layers. The result is a cuisine that feels familiar and foreign at the same time - Greek, for sure, but with something else going on. 

Start with pastitsada, Corfu's signature dish, slow-cooked beef or rooster (in the villages) in a rich tomato sauce, spiced with cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, served over a thick pasta base. The Venetians brought the technique with them but the Corfiots (as people from Corfu are known) made it their own.  

Sofrito is the other classic - thin slices of veal cooked in white wine, garlic, and parsley, the sauce is so good you'll want to mop it up with bread. Bourdeto comes from the island's fishing communities, a spicy fish stew, hot with red pepper, served with potatoes or bread.  

The island's snacks are also worth checking out. Pasteli is a sesame seed and honey bar, ancient and simple. Mantolato is a nougat of almonds and honey, traditionally made for weddings and Easter - but can be enjoyed anytime.  

Fougatsa is a sweet or savoury pie, filled with cheese or custard, baked until golden. And the kumquat - a tiny, tart citrus fruit that thrives in Corfu's mild climate - appears in liqueur, sweets, and candied peel. The kumquat liqueur is sweet, strong, and is the real taste of sunset in Corfu.  

Corfu's old town is where you'll find the real cultural hub of the island. The Liston arcade was built by the French, modelled on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The Cricket Club on the Spianada square is a relic of the British Protectorate, where the game is still played every summer. The Corfu Philharmonic is a source of fierce local pride, and its concerts in the old town square are not to be missed. If you happen to be visiting on Holy Saturday, the locals throw clay pots from their balconies to welcome spring - a tradition that predates Christianity.  

The island villages have their own pace of life.  

In Gastouri, the Achilleion Palace draws the crowds, but the village itself is quiet and pleasant, with a central square and a handful of tavernas. In Sinies, in the northeast, the old olive press has been converted into a restaurant serving local dishes with a view over the sea. In Stavros, near Sidari, the kumquat distilleries offer tastings of the liqueur and a glimpse into the island's cottage industry.  

You may also come across Bakaliaros skordalia (fried salt cod with garlic dip) which is usually served on particular religious holidays, and frigania in the summer (rusks soaked in tomato, topped with feta, oregano, and olives). And don't miss the local olive oil, pressed from the island's ancient trees, and is as good as any you'll find elsewhere in Greece. Take a bottle home with you, you'll wish you'd brought two.  

Corfu's food and culture aren't about pretence or extravagance, they're about the layers that come together to give Corfu its unique feeling - Venetian, French, British, and Greek - a blend of past and present. 

Direct flights from Dublin and Cork run from spring through autumn, taking about three and a half hours. A hire car is the best way to explore - the island is bigger than it looks, and some of the best beaches are off the main roads.  

The roads are narrow in places, and parking in Corfu Town can be difficult, but confident drivers will manage. ATVs and scooters are popular but less safe.  

Mosquitoes are present, especially near water and in the evening. Pack a good repellent and some antihistamines in case you have an allergic reaction to a bite.  

Comfortable walking shoes are essential for the old town's cobbled lanes and for visiting any of the hillside monasteries. A light jacket or fleece is useful for cooler evenings, even in summer.  

For electronics, Greece uses the same 230V voltage as Ireland, but you'll need a two-pin Type C or F adaptor for your Irish three-pin plugs.  

Corfu is affordable compared to many European destinations. A souvlaki is a few Euros, a sit-down meal with wine is approximately €15–20 per person. The local wine is perfectly drinkable and cheap. Supermarkets are well-stocked for picnics.  

Cards are accepted in most places, but carry cash for smaller villages, remote beaches, and the odd market stall.  

Greeks greet with a "kalimera" (good morning) and a smile. After dinner, don't be surprised if a waiter brings you a small dessert or a shot of liqueur without asking - it's hospitality, not a trick. Tipping is appreciated but not aggressive; rounding up the bill or leaving 5–10% is fine.  

In churches and monasteries, and other religious sites, be sure to cover your shoulders and your knees - it's always good to carry a shawl or scarf in your daypack.  

Should you need it, the emergency number is 112. Pharmacies (Φαρμακε?ο) are easy to spot with their green crosses, and if you need a doctor, your hotel or the local pharmacist can usually recommend one.  

The water from the tap is safe to drink, but many prefer bottled - it's cheap and widely available. And don't forget sunscreen. The sun here is strong, even when the breeze makes it feel cooler than it is.  

One last thing. Corfu is one of those islands that rewards a little advance planning - a car, a base that suits your needs, and sense of where you want to go and what you want to do. But leave room for spontaneity. The best meals are often the ones you stumble upon in some tiny village or backstreet.  

And remember, the best views are usually the ones you weren't expecting, and the best memories are the ones you didn't plan at all.