Lisbon Holidays

Flights to Lisbon (and there are plenty of them) from Dublin, Cork, and Shannon airports take just under three hours, meaning you waste no time getting your holiday in Lisbon off to a flying start. 

Lisbon isn't like Paris, Madrid, or Rome. It's smaller, a little scruffier in places, but immensely proud of itself. The trams rattle up streets so steep you'll wonder how they make the turn. The tiles on the buildings are often chipped, but the light hits them in a way that makes you stop mid-step. And the food? It's not fussy; it's grilled fish on paper plates, a glass of wine that costs less than your coffee, and a custard tart so good you'll queue for it twice (or more) in one day.  

The hills are not a joke. Seven of them, stacked with viewpoints that reward the climb. But don't let that put you off, the locals will tell you to take the tram, and you really should. Tram 28 is the most famous of these but it's also the most popular with tourists. If you want to really enjoy your ride on the 28, the secret is to hop off when it gets crowded. The real Lisbon is in the streets between the tourist stops - Alfama's secret alleyways, Graça's neighbourhood cafés, Mouraria's fusion of Fado and world music.  

West of the city centre, and easily reached by foot along the Tagus River, Belém is where the city tells its origin story. The Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower celebrate an age when Portugal mapped the world. And the Pastéis de Belém bakery has been making their famous custard tarts since 1837, the recipe is still a secret, and the queue is worth it. Sit inside if you can; the beautifully tiled rooms are part of the whole experience.  

Fado, the music of the Portuguese soul isn't a just a show that is performed; it's a feeling that slips out of unmarked doors after dark. For the real Fado experience, you don't need a ticket - just wander Alfama or Mouraria and follow the haunting sounds of voice and guitar.  

The Museu Nacional do Azulejo is the place to understand the stunning blue tiles that cover the city, housed in a former convent that's worth the visit for the building alone. And LX Factory, a former industrial site, now buzzes with independent shops, street art, and a rooftop bookshop that's become a Lisbon institution.  

When the city heat builds, the coast calls. Carcavelos is the easiest beach from Lisbon - a 20-minute train ride, while Cascais, 30 minutes further on, offers sheltered coves like Praia da Rainha and the wilder Atlantic stretch of Guincho, where windsurfers dance on the waves. Costa da Caparica, across the Tagus River, is a 15-kilometre string of sand with a laid-back vibe (cool wine bars and restaurants), reached by ferry from Cais do Sodré.  

On a practical note, the best time to visit the castles and viewpoints is at sunrise or in the late afternoon, when the crowds thin out and the light turns the river gold. 

Another fantastic way of exploring the city is by taking a city tour, either in an open-top bus or on a city walking tour. One of the best walking tours available is with the 'Taste of Lisboa Food Tour', this great experience lets you wander the city's backstreets sampling the food and drinks of local artisans, in tiny cafes and Fado houses, cheese shops and fish markets, while discovering parts of the city that you would never find by yourself.  

A short break in Lisbon is about finding your own rhythm (do your research first). Some mornings you'll want to be the early bird at a monument before the queues snake around the block. Other days, the best plan is to wander without a plan - let the trams decide, follow a narrow alley because it looks promising, sit at a pavement café and watch the city do its thing. Don't think of it as time wasted, that's just Lisbon being Lisbon.  

Start with a sunrise somewhere high. The city's miradouros (viewpoints) are spectacular at any hour, but in the early morning, before the crowds arrive, they feel like they belong to you alone.  

Miradouro da Graça has a kiosk that opens early for coffee, and the light on the castle is soft and golden. You'll share the bench with a few joggers, a dog walker or two, and the sense that you've found something the guidebooks could never tell you.  

Next, the best advice is to discover the hidden streets of the neighbourhoods. Alfama is the oldest, a maze of cobbled lanes that demand you get lost. There's no wrong turn here, every alley eventually leads to a river view or a tiny tasca where someone's grandmother is making caldo verde.  

Chiado is the elegant alternative, with bookshops and cafés tucked between grand facades. Bairro Alto is quiet by day, its narrow streets waiting for the evening when they transform into the lively party quarter of the city. Walk them in the afternoon, and you'll catch shopkeepers opening their doors, the smell of grilled fish drifting from somewhere above.  

Make time for a museum that isn't the one everyone talks about. The Museu Nacional do Azulejo is housed in a former convent, and the tile panels tell Portugal's history without a single date to memorise. The chapel is a lavish explosion of blue and white tiles, and the café is situated in the old refectory - it might be the most peaceful spot in the whole city. You'll be in and out in an hour, and at the end you'll understand Lisbon better than any guidebook could ever teach you.  

Here's some good advice; when you get hungry, eat like the locals do. Skip the riverside restaurants with laminated menus. Instead, find a tasca where the day's special is written on a whiteboard and the vinho da casa arrives in a jug. Order the bifana (you can thank us later) - a hot spiced pork sandwich - that's meant to be eaten standing at the counter. Share a plate of petiscos (Portuguese tapas) at a marble table in a narrow alley; let the owner tell you what's fresh, what's good, and what they have for lunch.  

If you have a spare afternoon, another good idea is to head west. Cascais is half an hour by train, and the journey itself is a real pleasure - the tracks run the whole way along the riverside, to the coast, opening onto Atlantic beaches and cliffs that make you glad you left the city behind for a while. Walk the promenade, find a beach bar, watch the surfers. Come back for sunset in Lisbon, when the city's seven hills catch the light and the trams start their evening climb.  

Sintra, if you plan to visit, deserves a full day. Take the early train, beat the crowds to Quinta da Regaleira, and spend the morning exploring its tunnels and initiation wells (used by the Knights Templar) before the queues form. Then climb to Palácio da Pena, not for the palace itself, but for the gardens that wrap around it, with hidden grottoes, secret viewpoints, and a lake where swans move like they're posing for a painting. 

Leave space for doing nothing - that's the real secret of enjoying Lisbon.  

A long lunch that stretches into afternoon. A seat at a miradouro with a glass of wine and no particular place to be. A tram ride that ends somewhere unexpected; Lisbon works best when you stop chasing it and let it come to you. Even a short getaway, or a romantic break will give you lots to fall in love with. You'll just have to come back to see the rest later. 

Lisbon's coastline offers a surprising variety of sand and sea, from the sheltered crescents of Cascais to the wild Atlantic stretches that draw surfers from across Europe. Within an hour of the city centre, you can choose between calm family coves, dramatic cliffs, and beachfront promenades with seafood restaurants.  

Try to remember, that some of the beaches mentioned below are situated on the Atlantic coast and even in high summer can be windy and cold in the evenings. Make sure to come prepared. 

• Praia de Carcavelos: The largest and most accessible beach near Lisbon. Wide sandy stretch, reliable surf, and a lively promenade. Easily reached by train from the city centre.  
• Praia da Rainha, Cascais: A tiny, sheltered cove tucked behind the old town. Calm water, soft sand, and a charming, old-school feel. Perfect for a quick dip.  
• Praia da Duquesa, Cascais: A compact, family-friendly beach right in the heart of Cascais. Sheltered, shallow water, and surrounded by cafés and restaurants.  
• Praia do Guincho: A wild Atlantic beach west of Cascais. Dramatic cliffs, strong waves, and a magnet for surfers and windsurfers. The sunsets here are spectacular.  
• Praia da Adraga: A hidden gem near Sintra, framed by towering cliffs and natural rock formations. Unspoiled, with a single beachside restaurant serving fresh fish.  
• Praia da Ursa: A secluded cove just north of Cabo da Roca, Europe's westernmost point. Access requires a steep hike, but the dramatic rock formations reward the effort.  
• Praia de São Pedro do Estoril: A quieter alternative to Cascais, with calm waters and a long promenade. Popular with locals and families seeking space.  
• Praia do Tamariz, Estoril: The classic Estoril beach, backed by the elegant casino gardens. Sandy, calm, and served by a scenic promenade lined with cafés.  
• Praia da Conceição, Cascais: A small, central cove with calm water and a relaxed vibe. Sandwiched between the town and the citadel, perfect for a midday break.  
• Costa da Caparica: A 15-kilometre stretch of sand across the Tagus from Lisbon. Surf beaches, quiet coves, and a laid-back vibe. Reached by ferry or bridge. 

We'd said it before, and we'll say it again (because it's important). The best meal you'll have in Lisbon probably won't be in a restaurant. It'll be a bifana - a simple, spiced pork sandwich - eaten standing at a marble counter, the juice running down your wrist, a cold beer perched on the side.  

Or it'll be a cone of Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato, clams in garlic and coriander, served in a local tasca where the wine comes in a jug and the bill doesn't require a calculator. Lisbon's food isn't fussy, it's honest, it's generous, and it's everywhere.  

Pastéis de nata (delicate custard tarts) are the city's edible emblem, and the pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém is worth making. But the real secret is that the best ones aren't always the famous ones. In Manteigaria, near the Chiado crossroads, you can watch them being made while you wait - the pastry shattering, the custard still warm, a dusting of cinnamon that catches in your throat. And just like with the bifana; there's a marble-topped counter, you stand, and you eat. That's all there is to it.  

Then, it's time to let the neighbourhoods feed you. In Alfama, follow the sound of Fado and you'll find a tasca where the grilled sardines are still glistening, served with boiled potatoes and a salad that's just lettuce and onion, but somehow perfect.  

In Mouraria, the city's most multicultural corner, you'll eat caldo verde (a delicious and traditional Portuguese soup) alongside Mozambican shrimp and Indian samosas, all within a few metres of each other.  

In Campo de Ourique, the market is a local secret - nothing like the Time Out hubbub, just stalls selling produce and a handful of tables where you can eat pica-pau (cubes of beef in a mustard-wine sauce) with your elbows on the marble counter (as per usual).  

The wine is cheap, and the locals like it that way. A glass of vinho verde - young, slightly sparkling, and from the north - costs less than your coffee. Vinho tinto from the Alentejo arrives in a jug, and no one asks what year it was bottled. The Portuguese drink to share, not to impress. They'll raise a glass, say saúde, and you're immediately part of the conversation (whether you can speak the language or not).  

Fado is the other thing you can't explain until you've felt it. It's not a show; it's a late-night murmur from a door cracked open, a voice that stops conversation, a guitar that seems to find notes no one else knows are there. The famous houses in Alfama will charge you for dinner and a cover, but the real Fado is free.  

In Tasca do Jaime, a former bullfighter hosts Wednesday nights, and the singing starts when someone feels like it (just like an Irish session). In Mouraria, you'll hear it from open windows on summer evenings - a voice, a silence, and a sense that you've stumbled into something sacred.  

The miradouros are the places where the city breathes at the end of the day. Santa Catarina is where locals go at sunset, beer in hand, watching the 25 de Abril Bridge turn pink. Graça has a kiosk that sells wine and cheese, and a bench that faces the castle.  

Senhora do Monte is the highest, the one where you can see almost everything - the river, the rooftops, the trams crawling up the hills like they've been doing it forever. The only thing you need here is the time it takes to drink it all in.  

And then there's the shopping that doesn't feel like shopping.  

In Príncipe Real, the street of embaixadas (embassies) is a palace repurposed into a concept store, selling Portuguese design items in rooms that once belonged to aristocrats.  

In LX Factory, a former industrial site in the Alcantara area, you'll find a rooftop bookshop where you can read with a view of the bridge, and a tasca where the octopus is grilled over charcoal and the wine is poured from a barrel.  

In the Feira da Ladra (the Thieves Market), the age-old Tuesday and Saturday flea market, you'll find vintage tiles, old photographs, and a set of mismatched glasses that someone's grandmother probably served port in.  

Lisbon doesn't need to be explained. It needs to be eaten, listened to, wandered. Four days is enough to taste it. A lifetime wouldn't be enough to know it. That's the beauty of the city on the Tagus. 

Let's get the practical stuff out of the way so you can focus on the important things - like whether to have bifana or grilled sardines for lunch (the correct answer is bifana). Lisbon is wonderfully straightforward for Irish travellers, but a little planning makes the difference between a good trip and a great one.  

Irish passport holders enjoy visa-free travel within the Schengen Area - just bring your passport and you're set. The currency is the euro, so no mental conversion gymnastics. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but carry a bit of cash for tascas, markets, and that small roadside bifana place that doesn't take plastic. For electronics, Portugal uses the same 220V voltage as Ireland, but you'll need a two-pin Type C or F adaptor for your Irish three-pin plugs. And yes, there are Irish pubs, so you won't miss the match on TV. 

When to go to Lisbon matters more than you'd think. March-May and September-October are the best times: warm sunshine, manageable crowds, and a special golden light that makes the city's tiles glow. July and August are peak season - vibrant, buzzing (crowded), and hot - with queues at popular sights and prices to match. Winter is mild and quiet, perfect for museum-hopping and slow discovery. 

Getting around is easier than it looks, in fact Lisbon is super easy to navigate.  

The Lisbon Card offers unlimited travel on public transport (that means no ticket worries) plus free or discounted entry to most museums - worth it if you're planning to pack in the sights. Ride-hailing apps like Uber and Bolt are cheap and plentiful, especially useful for late nights or when your feet have had enough of the hills.  

Money and budgeting. Lisbon is more affordable than many European capitals, but it's no longer the bargain it once was. A menu do dia (set lunch) is still excellent value - usually €10–15 for a three-course meal with wine. Dining in tourist hotspots costs more; explore the backstreets of Mouraria or Graça for authentic tascas with honest prices. ATMs are widely available; avoid independent exchange kiosks for better rates.  

Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory. In restaurants, rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10% for good service is standard. For taxi drivers and tour guides, a few Euros is fine. Unlike some countries, there's no pressure to tip extravagantly - just be fair.  

What to pack. Beyond the obvious (swimwear, sunscreen, a hat), pack layers. Summer evenings can be breezy, and air-conditioning in museums and restaurants can be frigid - a light jacket or wrap is essential. Comfortable shoes are a must; the city's cobblestones and hills will test even the sturdiest sandals. A reusable water bottle is handy - Lisbon has public fountains, and staying hydrated while walking is really important.  

Lisbon is generally safe, but like any popular city, watch your belongings on crowded trams and in busy spots like the Time Out Market. Pickpocketing is the main concern, not violent crime. Keep valuables out of back pockets and keep your bags zipped. The emergency number is 112. Pharmacies (with a green cross) are plentiful for minor ailments.  

The coast is closer than you think. Cascais is a 30-minute train ride (with brilliant views) from Cais do Sodré (there are also two Irish pubs near the train station), offering sandy beaches and seafood restaurants, making it perfect for a half-day escape. Costa da Caparica is a 15-minute ferry across the Tagus, a string of surf beaches with a laid-back vibe. Both are easy to reach without a car.  

Book the most popular attractions like the Jerónimos Monastery and Sintra palaces in advance online to skip queues. If you're visiting in summer, mornings are best for sightseeing before the heat builds. And finally, while English is widely spoken, a bom dia (good morning) and obrigado/obrigada (thank you) will earn you a warmer smile.  

Lisbon rewards a little advance thinking. Get the basics right, and the rest is just wandering, eating, and letting the city do its thing.