Crete Holidays

Here's what nobody tells you before you go to Crete, you can't do it all in a week. You can barely do it in two. So the first decision you need to make isn't which hotel to book (don't worry, Cassidy Travel can help with that) it's which Crete you want to see.  

If you fly into Heraklion, you're in the busy east. This is where the Minoan palaces are, where the package holidays landed first, where the beaches are organised and the sunbeds are plentiful.  

Heraklion itself is a working city - traffic, shops, a world-class museum tucked behind a fortress. It's not pretty like Chania, but it's real.  

The resorts stretch east to Hersonissos and Malia, places that originally made their names for their club scenes but have since broadened their appeal. Further east, Agios Nikolaos is smaller, calmer, built around a lake that connects to the sea. Elounda is for those with deep pockets, with amazing views looking across to Spinalonga.  

If you fly into Chania, you've chosen the west. This is the Crete of postcards, the Venetian harbour, the lighthouse, the old town that winds up the hill in a tangle of alleyways. The beaches here are more dramatic, set against cliffs or backed by olive groves.  

The Samaria Gorge cuts through the White Mountains, a sixteen-kilometre hike that starts at a plateau and ends at a village by the sea. And the south coast, beyond the mountains, is quieter, with small villages and beaches that feel like the island's best kept secrets.  

In between them sits Rethymno. It has the charm of Chania without the crowds, a long sandy beach, and a fortress that watches over everything. The old town is a maze of Venetian buildings and Ottoman minarets, and the restaurants along the harbour are good without being extortionate. It's a sensible base - close enough to both airports, easy to explore from, and pleasant enough that you might never leave.  

The south coast is a different Crete altogether. This is where the island turns its back on mass tourism.  

Matala, where the hippies carved caves into the cliff. Frangokastello, with its Venetian fortress and a beach that stretches for miles. Paleochora, a laid-back town with ferries to Gavdos - Europe's southernmost speck of land. The roads here are winding, the villages are quiet, and the beaches are often reached by tracks rather than tarmac. It's not for everyone, but for those who make the effort, it's unforgettable.  

The interior of the island is the Crete that time forgot. Vineyards and olive groves, villages where the only sound is the church bell with winding mountain roads that lead to plateaus where shepherds still graze their flocks.  

So here's the honest advice: pick one airport and one region. Give yourself time to settle. Don't try to drive from Elounda to Falassarna in a day - you'll spend more time in the car than at the beach.  

Come with a plan, but leave room for the detours and stop-offs. The best parts of the island aren't on any itinerary, and you'll probably find them by accident, but you'll remember them forever. 

Yes, Crete is an amazing sun holiday destination, but it's also a whole lot more where the choices are limitless. You wander into a village that's been there since the Venetians and stay for lunch because the owner's grandmother is in the kitchen. You go for a hike that turns into a swim, a drive that turns into a unique discovery, a sunset that turns into an hour you didn't know you had. These are all the real experiences that stick with you long after your tan has faded.  

If you're feeling energetic, hike the Samaria Gorge. Sixteen kilometres from the Omalos plateau to the seaside village of Agia Roumeli, through pine forests and past the famous "Iron Gates" where the cliffs narrow to a few metres. The walk takes five to seven hours, and it's downhill almost the whole way. Start early, bring water and sunscreen, and wear sturdy shoes. And when you're done, your reward is a swim in the sea and a cold beer at a taverna by the ferry dock.  

Get lost in the old towns of Chania and Rethymno. No map, no plan, just the narrow streets and the Venetian buildings and the sudden squares where old men play tavli (a form of backgammon).  

In Chania, follow the harbour toward the lighthouse, then turn inland and see where it takes you. In Rethymno, climb to the Fortezza for the views, then wander back down through the maze. The best finds - a workshop, a courtyard café, a door that opens onto a hidden garden - are the ones you stumble into by accident and leave the biggest impressions.  

Drive the road from Heraklion to Agia Pelagia. It's short, but it's simply stunning - winding through olive groves, with sudden views of the sea. The village itself is a curve of white houses around a blue bay, with sunbeds and tavernas and a pace that belongs to another century.  

The best advice for Agia Palagia is to arrive late in the afternoon, when the light softens, and take a swim from the rocks at the far end of the bay. Then, find a table by the water and order whatever the fishermen caught that morning.  

Visit Knossos, but go prepared. The site is crowded and the heat can be brutal. Go early, before the tour buses arrive, and hire a guide or buy the audio-guide - the stories are worth it. Then spend the afternoon at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, where the artefacts from Knossos and other Minoan sites are displayed in a building as impressive as the treasures inside.  

Take the boat to Spinalonga. The island fortress is a short ferry ride from Elounda or Plaka. The Venetian walls are impressive, but the story is what you'll remember most. Spinalonga was a leper colony until 1957, and the guided tours tell the history with dignity and care.  

Explore the south coast by car - renting a car is nearly a must on the island. The road from Heraklion to Matala is an adventure in itself - winding through the mountains, past villages that look abandoned and others that feel like they've been there, and thriving forever.  

Matala is the famous stop, with its hippie caves carved into the cliff. But push further west to Frangokastello, where the Venetian fortress stands empty and the beach stretches for miles.  

Or you might want to head west to Paleochora, a laid-back town with ferries to Gavdos, Europe's southernmost point. The south coast is quieter, rougher, and worth the drive.  

Find a mountain village and stay for lunch - a very long lunch. The best meals on Crete aren't in the seaside tavernas (although they can be wonderful), they're in the hills, where the lamb is roasted over charcoal, the wine comes from a barrel, and the owner brings you something the menu doesn't list because his uncle just dropped off fresh cheese. Archanes, Zaros, Anogeia, Kritsa - any village with a square and a few parked scooters will do. Order whatever they recommend and take your time. 

Stay for the sunset somewhere unexpected, not at a bar in Chania, though that can be spectacular too. Find a beach on the west coast where the sun dips over the horizon. Climb to a Venetian fortress and watch the shadows lengthen over the valley. Pull over at a mountain bend and just sit on the guardrail. The sunsets here are the same for everyone, but the best ones feel like yours alone - and they're free.  

Crete's coastline is a string of contrasts. The north coast beaches are organised - sunbeds, umbrellas, and tavernas playing Greek music. The south coast beaches are wilder, often reached by winding roads that make you feel like you've earned the swim. The east has shallow lagoons and pink sand. The west has dramatic cliffs and turquoise water. You see what we mean by contrasts? 

Here's a short list of some of Crete's very best beaches and swimming opportunities. 

• Elafonisi Beach, Chania - Pink sand and turquoise water, a shallow lagoon that's perfect for families. The famous pink tint comes from crushed shells. Go early - the crowds arrive by mid-morning.  
• Kedrodasos Beach, Chania - A lesser-known neighbour to Elafonisi, with juniper trees growing right down to the sand. No facilities, just cedar shade and clear water. A local secret.  
• Balos Lagoon, Chania - A stunning lagoon reached by a rough dirt road or a boat from Kissamos. Shallow, warm, and postcard-perfect. The drive is an adventure; but the reward is worth it.  
• Falassarna Beach, Chania - A long stretch of golden sand with dunes and clear water. Popular with locals, exposed to the wind, and beautiful at sunset. Sunbeds, tavernas, and space to spread out.  
• Vai Beach, Lasithi - The famous palm forest beach, with a long stretch of sand backed by Europe's largest natural palm grove. Busy, beautiful, and worth the drive.  
• Matala Beach, Heraklion - The hippie beach, with caves carved into the cliff. The sand is fine, the water is clear, and the vibe is relaxed. The caves are a short climb; the sunset from the hill is spectacular.  
• Preveli Beach, Rethymno - A palm-fringed river meets the sea here, creating a lagoon that's perfect for a cool dip. The walk down from the monastery is steep; but the swim is the reward.  
• Agios Pavlos, Rethymno - A quiet, sandy beach on the south coast, with a small church on the headland. The water is clear, the crowds are thin, and the sunsets are unforgettable.  
• Plakias Beach, Rethymno - A long, sandy stretch with a few tavernas behind it. Steady wind makes it popular for surfing and windsurfing. The nearby coves are quieter.  
• Sougia Beach, Chania - A long stretch of pebbles and sand, backed by the White Mountains. The village is small, the tavernas are good, and the ferry to Agia Roumeli and Paleochora departs from here.  
• Makry Gialos Beach, Lasithi - A long, sandy beach on the south-east coast, with shallow water and a handful of tavernas. Quieter than the north coast, with a laid-back, local feel.  
• Agia Galini Beach, Rethymno - A sandy cove in a small fishing village, with calm water and a relaxed atmosphere. The village itself is adorable - white-washed alleys and a hillside of windmills.  
• Karavostasi Beach, Lasithi - A sandy bay near the village of Paleokastro, with shallow water and a view of the small islet of Agioi Pantes. Quiet, family-friendly, and good for snorkelling.  
• Frangokastello Beach, Chania - A long, sandy stretch in front of a Venetian fortress. The water is clear, the beach is quiet, and the fortress ruins are worth exploring before or after your swim.  
• Ligres Beach, Chania - A remote, sandy beach near Frangokastello, with soft sand and turquoise water. No facilities, just a wild stretch of coast popular with campers and those seeking solitude. 

Crete is full of culture, most of which we've already mentioned - to put it simply, Cretan culture is to be found everywhere you go. But the food is one of the island's other real discoveries 

The Cretan diet is famous for a reason, it's not a fad or a marketing campaign, it's just the way people have eaten here for centuries - olive oil on everything, wild greens gathered from the hillsides, lamb slow-cooked in paper, cheese from goats that graze on thyme and oregano - you won't find too much feta here. And, the real beauty is you don't need to go looking for it, it's everywhere.  

Start with dakos, the island's answer to bruschetta, but way better. A barley rusk soaked in water, then topped with grated tomato, crumbled myzithra, and a generous pour of olive oil. It's simple and it's the perfect snack with a cold beer.  

The main courses are slow and delicious, so be prepared to take your time.  

Antikristo is lamb or goat cooked over an open fire on a spit, traditional in the mountain villages. Gamopilafo is rice pilaf cooked in lamb broth - the kind of dish that takes a whole morning to prepare. And don't miss the sfakiani pita, a cheese pie from Sfakia, grilled and drizzled with honey, somewhere between savoury and sweet.  

The villages do snails, and they're good. Chochlioi are boiled or fried in olive oil with vinegar and rosemary, served with a toothpick. They're earthy, garlicky, and worth trying if you're feeling adventurous - or just hungry. The same goes for staka, a creamy butter roux from the region of Chania, spooned over fries or bread.  

Coffee is a ritual here, not a refreshment. In the villages, the kafenion is the social heart. Old men play tavli (backgammon), the coffee is brewed in a brass pot on a stove, and nobody rushes. Order a freddo if you need something cold; a metrios - medium sweet - if you want something hot. 

The island's  olive oil is the thread that ties everything together. Crete produces some of the best oil in Greece, and you'll taste the difference. Drizzle it over bread, over cheese, over grilled vegetables, over anything that doesn't move. A tour of a working olive oil press is a pleasant afternoon, and you can take a bottle home with you - though it won't taste the same without the sea air.  

Every village has its panigiri - a religious festival with live music, dancing, and food that appears from nowhere - ask the locals if they know of one happening nearby. The bands play the Cretan lyra, and the dancing is a spectacle to behold.  

If you find a panigiri be sure to go. And once you're there and you're offered wine, accept it with gratitude, and in the knowledge that you'll be home late, but it's an experience you'll remember forever (hopefully).  

Here's a couple of last things to remember about Cretan food; the portions are generous and the pace is slow. And the owner will probably bring you something you didn't order - a slice of watermelon, a homemade candy, a shot of raki, or a story about his uncle. That's just the way it is in Crete. 

As we've mentioned many times already, Crete is different from the other Greek islands - bigger, busier, and way more spread out. And, there's a few things will catch you off guard if you're not prepared.  

The airport situation really matters. You have two choices: Heraklion (HER) or Chania (CHQ). They're three hours apart by road, so choose wisely.  

Heraklion is closer to Knossos, the Minoan palaces, and the package-holiday resorts of Hersonissos, Malia, and Stalis. Chania is the gateway to the west - the Samaria Gorge, Elafonisi, Falassarna, and the prettiest old town on the island.  

If you're renting a car, pick the airport that matches your plans. You don't want to drive across the island on your first day.  

Arrange your rental car before you leave Ireland. The best deals are online, and the rental desks at both airports can be chaotic in summer.  

A small car is fine for the main roads; a larger one is better for the mountain villages and the dirt tracks to the south coast beaches. Watch for fuel scams - check the tank and the mileage before you drive away, and photograph everything (yes everything). The roads are generally good, but the Cretan driving style is aggressive. Pull over for locals, and always drive with your lights on in the mountains.  

The Cretan sun is fierce, even in spring and autumn. Sunscreen, a hat, and a long-sleeved shirt for the middle of the day are not optional, they're a must. Mosquitoes are present near water and in the evening - good repellent is worth the weight in your suitcase.  

Comfortable walking shoes are essential for the Samaria Gorge, the ancient sites, and the cobbled alleys of Chania and Rethymno. And a light jacket or fleece for the evenings - the mountains cool down quickly, and the boat trips can be windy.  

Greece uses 230V, the same as Ireland, but the sockets are two-pin European (Type C or F). Your Irish three-pin plugs won't fit without a simple travel adaptor. Bring one.  

Crete is good value compared to the smaller Cycladic islands. A sit-down meal with wine is usually about €15-20 per person. The house wine is fine; the local beer, Mythos or Alfa, is cold and cheap.  

Cards are accepted in most places, but carry cash for mountain villages, remote beach tavernas, and the smaller markets. The ATMs in the main towns are reliable, but they can run out of cash on busy weekends.  

Irish passport holders don't need a visa for Greece - just your passport (make sure it's valid for at least 5 months after your arrival). The local emergency number is 112. Pharmacies are easy to find, marked with a green cross, and the pharmacists usually speak English. The tap water is safe to drink, but many prefer bottled - it's cheap, and the taste is better.  

The sun is the real risk; dehydration and sunburn are common. Drink more water than you think you need, much more. And if you've packed your own tea bags, you'll be glad you did. Greek tea is usually chamomile or mountain tea - lovely, but not what you're craving.  

The big mistake first-time visitors make is that they try to see too much. Crete is the size of a small country, and the driving times are longer than the map suggests. Pick a region, settle in, and leave the rest for next time, the island will still be here.