Rhodes

When you're planning your holiday in Rhodes it's important to know that discovering Rhodes old town can easily take up a whole day. The east coast beaches stretch for miles and are simply amazing. The west coast has its own quiet rhythm of life, and the island's interior - the villages, the forests, the hills - deserves that you give it some time also. So don't rush. pick a base, settle in, and let the island unfold slowly.  

The east coast is where most people end up, and for good reason; the sand is soft, the water is shallow, and the sunbeds are plentiful.  

Faliraki is the famous one - lively, built-up, with a nightlife that's been known to keep people awake (maybe not perfect for Irish families with small children). If you're travelling with a group of friends, be ready for some wild nights.  

But there are quieter stretches: Kallithea's pretty bay, Tsambika's long curve of sand, and the coves near Haraki where you can swim and then eat grilled octopus at a table by the water. Lindos is in a category of its own - beautiful, crowded, and best visited early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.  

The west coast is like a totally different island. Here, the wind is stronger, the beaches are rockier, and the general vibe is a whole lot quieter. This is where you come to escape.  

The Valley of the Butterflies is a strange, beautiful detour if you are visiting in early autumn. Monolithos Castle clings to a dramatic rock with views across the sea. And the beaches near Kamiros Skala, where the ferry to Halki departs, are the kind of places that you want to keep secret.  

Rhodes old town is the heart of the islands tourism, but it's not just for tourists. Yes, the main street is lined with souvenir shops and restaurants with laminated menus out front, but turn down a narrow lane, pass through an archway, and you'll find quiet squares where locals still do their shopping, tavernas where the menu is handwritten on a chalkboard, and those great walls that have stood for centuries. The Palace of the Grand Master is impressive, but the real pleasure is getting lost in the narrow backstreets.  

Getting around the whole island means renting a car. The island is big, the bus system is limited, and taxis add up quickly (they can be expensive). A hire car gives you the freedom to chase the sun, follow a winding road to a hilltop village, or stop at a beach because the water looks amazing. The roads are good, and distances are manageable - Lindos to the old town is about an hour.  

May, June, and September are probably the best times to visit: warm weather, manageable crowds, and a sea temperature that's just right. July and August are hot, busy, and expensive. Book everything in advance if you plan travelling at that time. The island stays warm into October, with fewer tourists and lower prices, though the evenings are cooler and some hotels begin to close.  

Rhodes is proud of its history, and rightly so - it's on open view everywhere - but it's also a place where you can be lazy, where the best plan is no plan, and where a beach and a book and a cold beer are more than enough. 

Start in Rhodes old town, but don't follow the crowds. The main street from the Eleftheria Gate to the Palace of the Grand Master is lined with souvenir shops and tourist tavernas. It's fine, but the real Rhodes is off to the side. Turn down a narrow lane, pass through an archway, and suddenly you're in a quiet square where old men play backgammon and the only menu is handwritten on a chalkboard. That's the old town worth finding.  

The walls themselves are an attraction. You can walk sections of them, looking out over the modern city and the sea. The best stretch is near the Palace of the Grand Master, where the fortifications are most dramatic. Go late afternoon, when the light softens and the heat eases. The ticket is cheap, and the views are worth every step.  

A boat trip to Lindos is a classic for a reason. The journey along the east coast takes about an hour, past coves and cliffs, with the sea a shade of blue that shifts from turquoise to deep navy. The harbour at Lindos is small and pretty, and the walk up to the acropolis is steep but manageable. Go early or late to avoid the heat. The alternative is a trip to Symi, a nearby island with a colourful harbour and a quieter pace. The ferry leaves from Rhodes Town, and the journey is part of the adventure.  

Prasonisi is for the active. The southern tip of the island is a sandy strip that connects Rhodes to a small island, with the Aegean on one side and the Mediterranean on the other. The wind is strong here, which makes it a magnet for kite-surfers and windsurfers. Lessons are available, and the beach is shallow enough for beginners. If you just want to watch, find a spot on the sand and enjoy the spectacle.  

The Valley of the Butterflies is a strange, lovely detour. A forested canyon where tiger moths gather in late summer, covering tree trunks in shades of brown and orange. The paths are cool, the waterfalls are small, and the butterflies are delicate—don't touch them, and speak quietly. The valley is busy in August; go early or later in the afternoon.  

For sunset, skip the crowded spots in Lindos. Drive up to Monolithos instead. The ruined castle clings to a dramatic rock, and the views stretch across the sea to the island of Halki. The climb is steep, but the reward is silence and a panorama that feels like yours alone. Pack a bottle of wine and a jacket—the wind can be cool even in summer.  

Wine tasting on Rhodes is a quiet pleasure. The island has a handful of small wineries, producing fresh whites and rosés from local grapes. Most require advance booking, but the tasting room in the old town is an easy introduction. The food pairings—local cheese, olives, and honey—are worth the price of admission.  

And then there's the nightlife. Faliraki has the clubs - and an Irish pub - and in July and August, they're busy! Super busy!. However, the strip is lively without being intimidating, and the crowd is mixed with many nationalities.  

Rhodes Town offers something completely different: cocktail bars (and another Irish bar) in the old town, live music in the new town, and a harbour where you can drink and watch the boats.  

Even if you're just there for the sun and the sea, the island also offers fun for the adventurous, wide smiles and great memories for families, amazing restaurants, unexpectedly good shopping, and so many local events you'll be spoiled for choice. 

Rhodes has over 200 kilometres of coastline, so narrowing it down to where to find the best beach is never easy. The east coast is where the sand is softest and the water is calmest - perfect for families with small children, and lazy afternoons spent soaking up the sun.  

The west coast is rockier, windier, and quieter, with a few hidden coves that you'll be thrilled to discover. And then there are the others: the shallow strip at Prasonisi, the pebble bays near Lindos, and the town beaches that are perfect for a quick dip to cool off.  

Here's a small selection worth your time. 

• Tsambika Beach - A long, golden stretch backed by a hilltop monastery. Shallow, family-friendly, and quieter than the resorts. The walk up to the chapel is steep but rewarding.  
• Anthony Quinn Bay - A small, rocky cove named for the actor who fell in love with it. Clear water, cliffs for jumping, and a sense of seclusion. Snorkel gear recommended.  
• St Paul's Bay, Lindos - A sheltered, postcard-perfect cove below the acropolis. Calm water, good tavernas, and a view that's been photographed a million times. It's busy, but pretty.  
• Faliraki Beach - Long, sandy, and lively. The water park is nearby, the strip is behind the sand, and the sunbeds are plentiful. Families in the day; party-goers at night.  
• Kallithea Beach - A small, pretty bay next to the restored Italian spa. The water is clear, the sunbeds are comfortable, and the domed rotunda makes for a nice backdrop.  
• Haraki Beach - A crescent of sand and pebbles in front of a small fishing village. A ruined castle watches from above. Good swimming, good octopus, and easy parking.  
• Ladiko Beach - A quiet bay near Anthony Quinn Beach, with a mix of sand and pebbles. Two tavernas, a few sunbeds, and a relaxed vibe. Less crowded than its neighbour.  
• Agathi Beach - A sheltered sandy cove near Haraki, popular with families. The water is shallow, the views are great, and the tavernas are good. Arrive early for a sunbed.  
• Prasonisi - The southern tip, where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean. A sandy strip that's ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Shallow, warm, but very windy.  
• Fourni Beach - A quiet pebble cove near Lindos, often overlooked by the crowds. No facilities, just clear water and a rocky shoreline. Perfect for a peaceful swim.  
• Pefki Beach - A sandy bay in the resort of Pefkos, just south of Lindos. Sheltered, shallow, and family-friendly. Sunbeds, tavernas, and a laid-back vibe.  
• Gennadi Beach - A long, quiet stretch in the south, with sand and pebbles. Less developed than the north coast, with a few tavernas and plenty of space to spread out.  
• Plakia Beach - A small, pebbly cove near the village of Kattavia, in the deep south. Quieter than Gennadi, with clear water and a single taverna. A local secret.  
• Stegna Beach - A pebble beach east of Archangelos, with clear water and a handful of tavernas. Quieter than the main resorts, popular with couples and families who want peace.  
• Elli Beach, Rhodes Town - A sandy beach just north of the old town, convenient for a quick swim. The water is clear, the jetty is good for diving, and it's the nearest option if you're staying in town. 

The Knights of St John left their mark everywhere on Rhodes - on the walls, on the churches, on the layout of the old town. But they left almost nothing on the kitchen.  

Food on Rhodes food is pure Greek, not medieval, and most certainly never bland. That means olive oil, fresh fish and octopus, grilled meat, and vegetables that taste like they were picked just that morning.  

So what foods should you try when in Rhodes? 

Start with pitaroudia -  chickpea fritters, spiced and fried, a specialty of the Dodecanese -  in the small countryside tavernas, every family has their own recipe that's been passed down for generations. You'll find them everywhere across the island, usually served as a meze with a cold beer or ouzo. They're simple, cheap, and hugely addictive.  

The sea is a the great provider for the island of Rhodes. Kalamari is everywhere, but the best is grilled, not fried, with nothing but olive oil, a pinch of salt, and oregano. Lakerda is cured tuna, sliced thin and served with lemon - another great and tantalising taste of the island's fishing heritage. And psarosoupa, a simple fish soup, is the kind of meal you want after a day on the water or beside the water.  

Rhodes  has a long winemaking tradition, with vineyards scattered across the interior. The whites from the Embonas region are fresh with a slightly mineral hint, perfect with seafood - especially shellfish. The island's red wines, in contrast, are light and easy to drink (maybe too easy). A few wineries offer tastings on the island, often paired with local cheese and olives - book ahead; the best ones are small and family-run.  

The villages have their own flavours too. In Embonas, you'll find soumada, an almond-based drink, sweet and cold. In Archangelos, the poulet sto fourno (oven-baked chicken with potatoes) is a local staple, and in Apolakkia, the honey is dark and aromatic, harvested from the wild thyme abundant in the area.  

Rhodes old town is the island's cultural heart, but it's not a museum, people still live their lives here. Yes, the main street is touristy, but step away from that and you'll find quiet squares, a wine bar tucked into a medieval building, a courtyard where a guitarist plays for no one in particular, and the echoes of children kicking a ball in a far-off backstreet. That's the kind of culture that matters here.  

The Knights' legacy is also everywhere, but the island's history is much deeper. The ancient city of Kamiros was abandoned centuries before the Knights arrived. The acropolis of Lindos was also a sacred site a thousand years before that. Rhodes has a whole range of layers, and they're worth exploring - not for the sake of ticking boxes, but because each layer tells a different and profoundly interesting story. It really is a place where history is still alive and breathing. 

The festivals are the best kind of local fun that you might be lucky enough to stumble across. In the summer, villages across the island hold panigiria - religious festivals with live music, dancing, and enough food to feed the entire island. If you hear music, track it down, and if you see a procession, join in, you're sure to be welcomed.  

Sunset is a ritual on the island, but try to skip the crowded spots (you're Instagram feed will thank you).  

The best sunset on Rhodes isn't at a bar in Lindos, it's on a quiet hillside in Monolithos, with nothing but the ruined castle and the sea. It's from the old town walls, looking out over the windmills of Mandraki harbour. It's from a taverna terrace in Haraki, with a glass of cold wine and no particular concept of time.  

Rhodes doesn't need to perform its culture, it's alive and it's everywhere. In the kitchens, the villages, and the quiet corners where the crowds don't go. It's up to you to find it. 

When it comes to size, it's worth knowing that Rhodes is twice as long as Kos and Zante put together. The drive from Rhodes Town to Lindos is about an hour on a good day. From Lindos to Prasonisi is another forty minutes. From Prasonisi back to the airport, you're  looking at the best part of a morning. Plot your route before you book your accommodation. The travel experts at Cassidy Travel will be more than happy to help you.  

That hire car you were wondering about is a necessity, unless you plan staying in your resort for the entire holiday.  

The bus from Rhodes Town to Lindos is fine, but try getting to Monolithos or the Seven Springs by public transport - or better still, don't. You'll spend half your holiday waiting.  

A small car is cheap outside July and August, and it pays for itself in the first two days. Just remember: Greek drivers have their own interpretation of lane markings; pull over when someone faster appears behind you. And never leave valuables in a parked car at a remote beach - locals will tell you the same, and it's common sense.  

On Rhodes, two wheels are for experts, not beginners. Scooters and ATVs are everywhere, and they look like fun, but the main roads have fast traffic, and the country roads can be narrow and slick with dust. The hospitals in Rhodes see plenty of tourists who thought different. If you haven't ridden before, this really isn't the place to learn.  

It's not something that you might have thought about, but when you're packing, it makes sense to include a small lightweight torch (or the light on your phone may be enough). The old town has dimly lit alleys, and the path down from the acropolis in Lindos is unlit after dark.  

Also, pack earplugs if you're based in Faliraki or Lindos; both can be noisy at night, and even quiet villages have roosters that act like alarm clocks at some ungodly hour of the morning. You might also want to pack a small pair of binoculars for birdwatching at the Aliki wetlands or spotting turtles at Tsambika. And don't forget to pack a power bank for your phone - you'll be using maps and the camera a lot more than you expected.  

Rhodes has more ATMs than you'll need, but be warned, they can run out of cash on busy weekends. Card payments are accepted in most restaurants and shops, but smaller tavernas and remote beach bars may prefer cash - ask before you order. Tipping is appreciated but never forced; rounding up the bill or leaving a few Euros is the local standard.  

When it's time to go home again, it's worth knowing that  Rhodes airport has two terminals: one for EU flights, one for non-EU.  

Irish passports go through the EU side, which is usually faster. The catch? There's very little signage. Follow the crowd, or better still ask someone. Departures can be chaotic in peak season, and the air conditioning barely handles the crowds. Bring patience and a bottle of water. The hassle is temporary; the memories will last a lot longer.  

For emergency situations it's good to know that the main hospital is in Rhodes Town, with smaller clinics around the island (hopefully you'll never need them). The emergency phone number is 112. For minor ailments, find a pharmacy - they're well-stocked and the staff usually speak English.  

The west coast beaches are windier and rougher; swim with caution, and obey local warning flags. And watch for sea urchins in rocky coves like Anthony Quinn Bay - wear water shoes, you'll thank us later.  

For electronics, Rhodes uses 230V voltage (the same as in Ireland), but the sockets are two-pin Type C or F. You'll need a simple travel adaptor for your Irish three-pin plugs.  

One last piece of advice is to plan your days around the heat - sightseeing in the morning, beach in the afternoon, and village explorations in the evening. Get that right and you'll have a truly memorable holiday on the island of the sun gods.