Santorini Holidays

Santorini isn't complicated, but besides the obvious and spectacular beauty of the place, there's a lot more to discover if you're willing to explore a little. The caldera villages are the real stars of the show, but the rest of the island will reward those who wander beyond the rim.  

May, June, and September are the best times to visit - warm weather, manageable crowds, and that famous vibrant light without the peak-season crush. July and August are busy, hot, and expensive, so you'll need to book everything months in advance if you're travelling in the peak season. Winter is quiet, with many hotels and restaurants closed, but a few hardy souls still come for the peace and the cheaper rates.  

Getting around is where visitors often stumble. The caldera villages are connected by a local bus system that works well, but it can get crowded at times. A hire car or ATV gives you the freedom to explore the east and south coasts, where the beaches are. Taxis are scarce and expensive - don't rely on them. The walk from Fira to Oia along the caldera rim is spectacular (about three hours), but do it early morning before the heat builds.  

Where to stay depends on your priorities and who you're travelling with. Oia is the famous postcard spot, with sunset views and premium prices. Fira is the busy hub, with the best transport links and nightlife. Imerovigli offers the quietest caldera experience, perched on the highest point of the island. For families or budget-conscious travellers, the east coast (Kamari, Perissa) gives you beach access and lower rates, with day trips into the caldera villages.  

Santorini is expensive by Greek standards. A caldera-view room costs significantly more than one without the view. Even when it comes to eating out, restaurants in Oia and Fira charge a premium just for the view that accompanies your meal. The good news, however, is that the east coast offers better value, and the island's wineries provide excellent tastings for a fraction of what you'd pay elsewhere.  

When you get thirsty, and you will, it's good to know that the water from the taps is safe to drink, though many prefer to buy bottled water from the local shops.  

The sunsets in Oia are truly spectacular, but crowded. Arrive early to claim a spot, or simply watch from a different village - Imerovigli and Firostefani offer similar views with fewer people.  

If you're travelling with kids, you'll need to know that the caldera villages are not stroller-friendly. Steep steps, uneven paving, and sheer drops make them challenging for young children. The beaches on the east and south coast are a better fit for families.  

In reality, Santorini is ideal for anyone who wants to experience one of the planet's most beautiful islands. Whether they happen to be families, honeymooners, romantic couples, or groups of friends looking for fun this beautiful oasis lost in the azure blueness of the Aegean sea has something to offer everyone. 

The beaches get all the attention here, but Santorini's real magic happens away from the sand. The caldera is the island's beating heart, and the best way to experience it is from the water.  

A catamaran cruise around the volcanic islands gives you a perspective that no cliff top viewpoint can match. You'll sail past the white-washed villages, stop for a swim in the hot springs of Palea Kameni (the water is warm, muddy, and smells faintly of sulphur), and watch the sunset from the deck with a glass of Assyrtiko in hand. It's touristy, yes, but it's also a totally unforgettable experience that you'll talk about for years to come.  

For any active-minded people, the hike from Fira to Oia is the island's essential experience. About ten kilometres along the caldera rim, with views that make you stop every few minutes for another photograph. Start early - we mean by 7am - to beat the heat and the crowds. The path is uneven in places, and there's little shade, so bring water, a hat, and sturdy walking shoes. The reward is arriving in Oia just as the tour buses are pulling in, and the village still feels like it's all yours.  

The volcano itself is worth a visit. Nea Kameni, the black island in the centre of the caldera, is a protected geological site. A guided hike takes you across the lunar landscape to the still-smoking crater. It's hot, exposed, and totally fascinating. The boat trip usually includes a stop at Palea Kameni for a swim in the hot springs - don't expect spa temperatures, but the iron-rich water leaves your skin feeling strange (in a nice way) and soft.  

For a quieter adventure, explore the island's inland villages. Pyrgos is a medieval hilltop settlement with a ruined castle and panoramic views. The cobbled lanes are quieter than Oia's, and the wineries at the base of the hill offer tastings of volcanic Assyrtiko. Mesa Gonia, nearby, is a village of restored cave houses and Cycladic architecture, largely untouched by mass tourism. Wander, get lost, and find a small café to rest and recharge.  

The archaeological sites tell the island's deeper story. Akrotiri is a Minoan Bronze Age settlement buried by a volcanic eruption, often called the "Greek Pompeii." The excavation is sheltered, so you can visit year-round, and the three-storey buildings and well-preserved frescoes are pretty impressive. Ancient Thira, perched on a mesa above Kamari, requires a steep climb, but the ruins - Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine - spread right across the ridge, and the views over the Aegean are uniquely spectacular.  

Wine tasting is a must. Santorini's volcanic soil and unique climate produce wines found nowhere else. Assyrtiko is by far the most well known - crisp, mineral, and with a slight saline hint, perfect with seafood (of which there's no shortage).  

Visit Santo Wines for the view (the terrace overlooks the caldera) or Venetsanos for a more intimate experience. Both offer tastings that explain why these vines survive - and thrive - in such harsh conditions.  

And then there's the sunset. For sure it's crowded and clichéd, but standing at the Byzantine Castle ruins in Oia as the sun drops below the caldera, the sky turning the colour of confetti, you'll understand why people put up with the crowds. Find a spot early, bring a bottle of wine, and settle in.  

Santorini's beaches are nothing like the soft white sands of the Caribbean or the Canary Islands. They're volcanic beaches - black, red, white - and dramatic in their own way. Some are organised with sunbeds and tavernas; others are remote coves accessible only by boat or a steep scramble down (not for the faint-hearted). 

But don't worry, there are plenty of places to swim and cool down right around the island. Here are fifteen of the best to get you started.  

• Red Beach - Famous for its dramatic red cliffs and volcanic sand. Beautiful but often crowded. Check locally before visiting - rockfall closures are common.  
• White Beach - Accessible only by boat, this white-pebble cove is framed by towering pale cliffs. Secluded and stunning, but bring your own supplies.  
• Perissa Beach - A long stretch of black sand backed by a promenade of restaurants and bars. Organised sunbeds, water sports, and is family-friendly.  
• Kamari Beach - Similar to Perissa, with black sand and a lively promenade. The mesa of ancient Thira looms above, offering a great hiking opportunity.  
• Vlychada Beach - A quieter, more rustic black sand beach at the southern tip. Famous for its lunar-like cliffs carved by wind into weird shapes.  
• Perivolos Beach - The quieter extension of Perissa, with beach clubs, relaxed sunbeds, and a slightly more upscale vibe.  
• Monolithos Beach - A shallow, family-friendly beach with dark sand and calm water. Less crowded than Perissa or Kamari, with a playground nearby.  
• Agios Georgios - A peaceful beach on the southeast coast, popular with locals. Black sand, calm water, and a handful of tavernas serving fresh fish.  
• Thermi Beach - A small, rocky cove near the village of Thermi. Warm water from volcanic springs with no facilities - just a quiet spot for a swim.  
• Mesa Pigadia Beach - Accessible by a steep path from Akrotiri or by boat. Dark sand, clear water, and a couple of seasonal tavernas.  
• Caldera Beaches (Armeni, Ammoudi) - Small pebble coves below Oia and Fira, reached by very steep staircases. Beautiful but challenging for swimming.  
• Koloumbos Beach - A remote black pebble beach near the northern tip. No facilities, strong currents, and a sense of isolation rare on Santorini.  
• Palea Kameni Hot Springs - Not a beach, but a swim in warm, sulphur-rich water inside the caldera. Muddy and smelly, but supposedly therapeutic.  
• Baxedes Beach - A quiet stretch of dark sand near Oia, away from the crowds. No facilities, but a peaceful spot for a sunset swim.  
• Aspri Beach - A white pebble cove near Akrotiri, accessible by boat. The pale cliffs contrast beautifully with the deep blue water.

The food here is different. It has to be. The volcanic soil is poor, the summers are dry, and the wind never quite stops. What grows survives - and thrives.  

The vines here are trained into low, basket-shaped spirals to protect the grapes from the wind. Cherry tomatoes are small and intensely sweet, and are left to dry in the sun. And the fava, a yellow split pea puree, is so creamy it barely needs seasoning. This isn't fussy food, it's simple and delicious food that fought for its place on the plate.  

When it comes to the local wine, Assyrtiko is Santorini's gift to the world. It's crisp, mineral, and with a hint of salt - the taste of the volcanic rock and sea air in a glass. The grapes grow in vineyards that are centuries old, some untouched by the phylloxera that devastated the rest of Europe.  

Visit Santo Wines for the view (the terrace overlooks the caldera) or Venetsanos for a more intimate experience. Both offer tastings that explain why these twisted, gnarled vines produce something so elegant and so rare.  

The local dishes are also simple and satisfying. Tomatokeftedes (tomato fritters) are the island's signature dish - grated tomatoes, herbs, and a whisper of flour, fried until crisp. Fava is everywhere, served with capers and red onion. Chlorotyri, a fresh goat cheese, is mild and creamy. And the kapari (capers) grow wild on the cliffs, picked by hand, brined, and added to almost everything (forget anything you've tasted from a jar or a can).  

The villages too have their own pace of life. Pyrgos is a medieval hilltop settlement with a ruined castle and narrow lanes. The cafes here are quieter than Oia's, and the locals still outnumber the tourists. Megalochori is a traditional village of cave houses and wineries, with a central square where old men play tavli (backgammon) in the shade. Wander, sit, order a coffee. That's all you need. 

Sunset is a ritual on Santorini. In Oia, the crowds gather at the Byzantine Castle ruins an hour before the sun dips. In Imerovigli, the mood is quieter - couples on hotel terraces, a bottle of Assyrtiko between them. The ritual is the same everywhere, watch the sky change, feel the temperature drop, and listen to the collective sigh as the sun disappears. It's a cliché, but it's a wonderful cliché.  

The quieter side of the island is worth finding if you take the trouble. The southeast coast, where the beaches are and the land flattens, has a different kind of energy - more agricultural, more local.  

The village of Emporio is a maze of interconnected alleys designed to confuse pirates. The kasteli (fortified settlement/castle) at its centre is crumbling and atmospheric. These are the corners that don't make the postcards, but they're the ones that you'll remember forever.  

Santorini's food and culture aren't about any kind of huge extravagance. They're about doing simple things well - a glass of wine at sunset, a plate of fava with fresh bread, and a walk through a village where the only sound is your own footsteps.

Let's talk about how to make Santorini work for you, not the other way around.

First, the crowds you've heard about are real, especially in Oia at sunset. But here's the trick: don't fight them and use a bit of common sense. Watch the sunset from somewhere else - Imerovigli, Firostefani, or a boat on the caldera. If you want to visit Oia do it in the early morning, when the light is soft and the streets are empty. The tour buses start arriving around 10am, so it's best to plan around their arrival.  

Getting around Santorini is where people can get stuck. The bus system works, but it's slow and often packed - but it does work. A hire car or ATV gives you freedom, especially if you want to explore the east and south coasts. Taxis are scarce and expensive - don't rely on them, they may not even turn up when ordered. The walk from Fira to Oia along the caldera rim is spectacular, but do it early (7am early) before the heat builds. Bring water, a hat, and most importantly, sturdy shoes.  

So, what do you need to pack for your holiday in Santorini? The caldera villages are not flip-flop territory, that's for sure. Steep steps, uneven paving, and sheer drops demand proper footwear. A light jacket is essential for evenings - the wind off the caldera can be sharp, even in summer. Sunscreen is a 100% must have. The sun here is intense, and the white-washed buildings reflect it straight back at you. And a swimsuit, obviously.  

Santorini can be a little more expensive than the other Greek islands, so it's good to know where to splurge and where to save.  

A caldera-view room is expensive, but for many, it's the whole point of the trip (especially for honeymooners and couples on a romantic break). If that's you, then book early but still expect to pay a premium.  

If you're watching your budget, stay on the east or south coast - Kamari, Perissa, Monolithos - where accommodation is almost half the price and the beaches are better for swimming. Day trip into the caldera villages for the views, then retreat to the coast for dinner at local prices.  

The water from the tap is safe to drink, though many prefer bottled. The local wine is excellent and reasonably priced - skip the imported stuff (trust us). The island's signature dish, fava, is creamy, delicious, and cheap. And don't skip the tomatokeftedes -  little fried tomato fritters, crispy on the outside, soft inside, and the best thing you'll eat from a beachside taverna.  

For families with kids it's worth noting that the caldera villages are not stroller-friendly. Steep steps, narrow alleys, and sheer drops make them challenging for young children (and adults). If you're travelling with little ones, base yourself on the east or south coast and do day trips into the caldera. The kids will be happier, and so will you.  

And one last thing. Santorini is expensive, but it doesn't have to break you. Eat where the locals eat - away from the caldera rim, in the backstreets of Fira or the villages of Pyrgos and Megalochori. Drink the house wine, and walk instead of taking taxis. And remember that the best view is free, available from any spot along the caldera path.  

You don't need a five-star hotel to watch the sun set. You just need a patch of wall, a bottle of local wine, and a little patience.